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Venison Loin with Pomme Purée, Glazed Carrots and Sage–Walnut Butter

 

With cavolo nero, refrigerated pickled neeps and a chocolate game jus.

Serves: 2
Prep: 35 minutes, plus pickling ahead
Cook: Approximately 45 minutes, with overlapping steps
Rest: 10 minutes for the venison
Allow on the day: Approximately 1 hour 20 minutes
Oven: 180°C / 160°C fan

Ingredients

Venison

  • 350–400g whole, intact venison loin, approximately 4–5cm thick
  • 1 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • 15g butter
  • 1 garlic clove, lightly crushed
  • 2 thyme sprigs
  • Salt and black pepper

Pomme purée

  • 400g floury potatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 35g butter
  • 50ml whole milk
  • 40ml double cream
  • Salt

Vegetables

  • 180g baby carrots
  • 120g cavolo nero, tough stems removed
  • 20g butter, divided equally
  • 1 tsp caster sugar

Sage–walnut butter

  • 25g walnuts, roughly chopped
  • 25g butter
  • 1 tsp rapeseed oil
  • 2 small sage sprigs
  • Salt and black pepper

Chocolate game jus

  • 250ml good-quality game or beef stock
  • 50ml red wine
  • 1 small thyme sprig
  • 1–2 tsp sherry vinegar, to taste
  • 8g dark chocolate, approximately 70% cocoa
  • 1 tsp cornflour mixed with 1 tbsp cold water, only if needed

Pickled neeps — make the day before

  • 100g peeled swede, shaved into approximately 1mm slices
  • 75ml white wine vinegar, labelled at least 5% acidity
  • 75ml water
  • 30g caster sugar
  • ¼ tsp salt
  • 1 small star anise
  • 2 cloves
  • 4 juniper berries, lightly crushed

Crispy sage

  • 6 sage leaves
  • 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
  • A small pinch each of salt and sugar

Method

1. Make the refrigerated pickled neeps

  1. Put the vinegar, water, sugar, salt and spices into a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
  2. Add the very thin swede slices and simmer for 2–3 minutes.
  3. Transfer to a clean heatproof container. Cool promptly, cover and refrigerate within 2 hours.
  4. Leave refrigerated for 24–48 hours before serving. This is a fresh refrigerator pickle, not a preserve for cupboard storage. Make only the small batch required.

2. Prepare the potatoes and sauce

  1. Heat the oven to 180°C / 160°C fan.
  2. Boil the potatoes in lightly salted water for 15–20 minutes until tender.
  3. Meanwhile, simmer the red wine and thyme in a small saucepan for 3–4 minutes. Add the stock and simmer for 15–20 minutes, reducing to approximately 100–125ml.
  4. Remove the thyme. Stir in 1 tsp sherry vinegar and the chocolate over a low heat. Taste before adding more vinegar.
  5. If the sauce remains too thin, add a little cornflour mixture and simmer briefly. Keep warm.
  6. Drain and steam dry the potatoes, then rice or mash them. Warm the milk, cream and butter together and beat into the potato. Season and keep warm.

3. Cook the vegetables

  1. Steam or boil the baby carrots for 8–12 minutes, until just tender.
  2. Transfer to a frying pan with 10g butter, the sugar and 1 tbsp water. Toss over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes until glazed.
  3. Steam the cavolo nero for 4–6 minutes, drain thoroughly and toss with the remaining 10g butter.

4. Cook the venison

  1. Pat the loin dry and season. Heat the oil in an ovenproof frying pan.
  2. Sear all surfaces, including the ends, for approximately 4–5 minutes in total.
  3. Add the butter, garlic and thyme. Baste for 1 minute.
  4. Transfer to the oven and begin checking after 6–8 minutes. For this conservative home version, continue cooking until the centre reaches 70°C and holds there for 2 minutes. This produces cooked-through venison; thickness and starting temperature will affect the time.
  5. Transfer to a warm plate, cover loosely and rest for 10 minutes before slicing.

5. Make the sage–walnut butter

  1. Heat the oil and gently fry the walnuts for 2–3 minutes.
  2. Add the butter and sage sprigs. Cook gently for another 2–3 minutes until fragrant, without burning the nuts.
  3. Remove the woody stems and season lightly.

6. Crisp the sage and serve

  1. Heat the 2 tbsp oil in a small frying pan. Add completely dry sage leaves and fry for approximately 15–30 seconds until crisp.
  2. Drain on kitchen paper and add a small pinch of salt and sugar.
  3. Divide the potato purée, carrots and cavolo nero between warm plates.
  4. Add the sliced venison and a few drained pickled neep slices.
  5. Spoon over the sage–walnut butter and a little chocolate jus. Finish with crispy sage.

Adaptation notes: The quick pickling method and stock-based jus are proposed home versions. The programme uses a prepared restaurant game jus and does not state a venison cooking temperature.







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